In the Beginnings - An 1860's Fashion Show

Not too fashionable looking, am I?

Wash dress, apron, kerchief, and slat bonnet - basic garments that every female living historian should have and a great beginning to assembling a mid-19th century wardrobe.

Several years back, I was asked to present a fashion show at the annual Civil War event at Charlton Park, and I agreed - if I could do it my way.

So each show has a "theme" and this year I decided to address a question I frequently hear from spectators - no, not "Are you hot in those clothes?"  - but "How do you put together a wardrobe?"

We started by showing the underpinnings, chemise, corset,  drawers, petticoats, etc and explained WHY it's so important to have those layers before moving on to a dress - without the proper foundation, it's impossible to have the proper silhouette for the period.

We also discussed why under garments are the perfect place for a novice seamstress to practice - the skills used  can all be used in outer garments, and after all, if they aren't absolutely perfect, they won't be visible to the general public.

Skirt support was our next topic and also provided an opportunity to discuss research and trends in reenacting - we are both wearing corded petticoats, which for several years were the "in" thing, but further research has shown that by the war years, they were a bit of a rarity, having been replaced by the ubiquitous cage crinoline.

We also talked about the life cycle of garments - here we have what was previously a more fashionable dress, but it's become a bit faded and shabby and has now been relegated to work wear - think about the jeans that you now only wear when cleaning house. Clothing should be appropriate for the task at hand, why wear a fancy gown for messy tasks?

Another use for a dress past it's prime is to use it for yardage: just think how many aprons, slat bonnets, or children's garments a skirt could yield.

Removing that slat bonnet, apron and adding a plain white collar sure changed the look of my very basic dress!

Another versatile garment is a wrapper - great for early morning runs to the necessary without needing to get fully dressed and, due to the relatively loose fit, a very forgiving garment for the beginning seamstress. In this case, with permission, I shared the mistake made by the maker and her creative and appropriate solution - she had made her wrapper too short, but instead of discarding it, she added more fabric, running in the opposite direction to add length - it's a great solution, adds interest to the garment and looks intentional.

Here's another reason to start with a simple wash dress - you'll learn the skills to create a more fashionable gown. If you look closely, our basic dresses are very similar: fitted, gathered bodices and simple bishop sleeves. The difference is the finer fabric and bold trim of the dress on the left, as well as the stylish straw bonnet.

Here's another lovely example: striped sheer silk, with slim open sleeves worn over lace trimmed undersleeves, with a larger skirt support and accessorized with bonnet, gloves and reticule - she's ready to pay a call on friends!

 Again, the biggest differences between my wash dress and this gown suitable for visiting, are the fabrics and accessories - the rest is just details.

Despite having only a handful of models, I was able to share a huge amount of information with the viewers and they stayed to listen, standing in the sun on a 95 degree hot and humid day!

2012 Conference Highlights - Displays of Originals

The originals - I suspect this may be THE highlight of the Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860's conference for many attendees. Literally hundreds of items will be displayed over the course of the weekend, as they change each day. Photography is most definitely allowed - I took over a thousand images - and the owners of the items are always happy to point out unexpected details or move an item to reveal more information.

This presented a bit of a challenge for me - how to pick what images to share, as posting all of them just isn't feasible. So I decided  to take a "Costume in Detail" approach, just sharing bits of many garments in a collage format.

We start with accessories:

Next is millinery:

And finally, fabrics and trims:

Pretty incredible eye candy, yes?

Remember, this is just a small fraction of what was on display.

When I'm asked, "Is conference really worth it?", I tend to be almost over-enthusiastic, because I truly believe it's worth every penny and every inconvenience involved. The opportunities to learn, to share, to shop and simply interact with other individuals who are committed to "getting it right" are priceless.

We'll be there in 2013 - and we'll be presenters!

2012 Conference Highlights - Conference Fabric

There are many highlights to attending the Ladies and Gentlemen of the 1860's conferences but everyone always looks forward to Saturday morning and the grand reveal of the "conference fabric"

Traditionally, all the female presenters receive a cotton dress length of the fabric with the instructions "make an 1860's dress", the male presenters receive a smaller length of silk or wool to make a vest.

This year was different - all the presenters received a length of the beautiful Italian merino wool seen above and were told to make "a garment".

On Saturday morning, all the presenters come up on the stage and give a quick explanation of what they did and why - so let the show begin!

We'll start with a dress and look at the gorgeous bodice! The way it was darted creates really interesting lines and the little lapels are great. The lapels are quite easy to create, it's just the customary jewel neckline turned back and trimmed.

Something to notice on all these ensembles - the wearers have all the appropriate accessories, hairstyles, etc to complete the look - so look for the details!

Some speakers show the image that inspired them - not only are the outfits a match, so are the facial features!

                  

Trim and it's placement can really effect the look of a dress, and this is perfect. Just a bit can make all the difference in creating a custom look. While it doesn't show especially well in my photo, the little fringy faux buttons were dead on, perfect reproductions of those I've seen on original garments.

A fabric this beautiful doesn't necessarily need a lot of trim, especially when your fit is good - it's all a matter of personal style.

Vests were represented:

And trousers:

Here's a traveling outfit - sacque and petticoat, with all the accouterments, including carpetbag, shawl and umbrella.

Here's a way to stretch your wardrobe, a wool skirt worn here with a blue velveteen bodice. The skirt can also be worn with it's matching wool bodice. While skirts and bodices of the same fabric are the most common, this is a great example of an appropriate use of a coordinating bodice.

There are over 100 pompoms on this rigolette:

And here's Emily, in her very own conference dress:

A couple ladies created a garment we seldom see - coats:

                          

Remember, this year the instructions were for a garment - can you spot it?   (And, yes, he is singing!)

And his inspiration:

I'm in the planning stages of a bathing suit, so I was thrilled to see this outfit:

It was based on an original:



Effort was made to replicate all the details:

                     

Including the polka dot lining - it's the original "itsy-bitsy, teeny-weeny, yellow polka dot bikini"!

Some of my shots of individuals didn't turn out well, but here are some group shots showing everyone:

Speaking from experience, it's both exciting and terrifying when the box of conference fabric arrives: what if I don't like, what if it just won't "speak" to me, what if I totally mess it up? But I'm always amazed at the variety of creative ways the fabric is used and the Saturday morning reveal is a definite highlight of attending conference. 

Letting the Clothing Speak - An 1860's Fashion Show

Clothing is about function - protecting our bodies from the elements. But fashion, that's something entirely different.

Fashion involves following the standards of your particular society and time, and perhaps expressing your individuality - if that's appropriate to the societal norms.

During the mid-19th century, the clothing worn by an given individual spoke volumes about the person wearing it; I decided to let the clothing speak to the attendees of the fashion show held during Charlton Park's Civil War event, held July 16th-17th, 2011.

It was an exceedingly hot weekend and spectators for the fashion show had to stand in the direct sun, so this years show was fairly short, but we packed in a huge amount of information. It was also interactive with the audience - they were asked to identify the type of person who might be wearing an outfit, lower, middle or upper class, rural or urban, North or South, what type of activity the outfit might be used for , etc.

The "sister dresses" made another appearance - they're a perfect style for sweltering weather.

We discussed why a family might buy an entire bolt of fabric and how that fabric might be used for girl's dresses, father and son's shirts (okay, probably not if it's pink like this fabric), and mama's apron or slat bonnet. We also mentioned the practice of reusing the fabric from the skirt of a dress in any number of items - all the little thrifty tricks of a middle class lady using her resources to best effect.

While these dresses are practical, everyday clothing, they do have some fashionable touches - the wavy braid trim and fancy buttons, pretty touches for lovely girls.

This lovely lady has had a long night, caring for a sick infant and has not yet dressed for the day.

She is wearing a wrapper, somewhat equivalent to a modern housecoat, and it would be strictly at home wear.

The baby is all in white, which may seem impractical, but is actually a very reasonable choice, as white clothing can easily be boiled clean. Underclothing for all ages is usually white for the same reason.

This particular wrapper was remade from an old, worn out dress - hence it's slightly dated style of fabric, a pattern that would have been popular during the 1850's. This is another example of thrift, one that is often seen in original garments.

It has some lovely sleeve details:

I'm so fortunate in my friends - when I ask for help, they always come through - even when I ask them to show off their nightclothes!

This nightgown was copied from an original and features beautiful white soutash braidwork and buttonhole stitched scallops - I do wish it showed up better in this photo, as the workmanship is stunning.


This gentleman is wearing his brand new, finished the night before the event, paletot.

Paletot's are considered an informal garment, being made with a loose fit, flap pockets and no lining. They're really going out of style by the 1860's, but this man is old enough to have worn this in his younger years and there's no reason to discard a perfectly serviceable garment, unless you're a spendthrift.

It's a good fit for his persona, that of a cooperage shop owner, who used to actively labor in the trade, but now leaves the physical labor to his employees, while he tends to the financial side of the business.

His success at business has allowed the expense of some hired help at home, an Irish girl who serves as a "maid-of-all-work".

Her clothing is completely practical: dark colors, with a pattern to hide stains, sleeves that can be rolled up out of the way, a kerchief round her neck, apron, and no hoop to get in the way when scrubbing the floors.

Our businessman's wife will often work right alongside her help, but she now has some leisure time on her hands and she has decided to support the war effort.


She's sending some mixed signals regarding which side she supports in the war, her patriotic apron favors the North, as does her combination of red shoes, white stockings and blue dress. But that bonnet, trimmed in red, white, red - is it actually a secession bonnet?

Patriotic clothing and accessories, such as cockades, aprons and even bonnets were favored by both sides in the conflict, especially early in the war years. But as the casualties mounted and the war dragged on, such items are less common.

The dress is not extravagant, the slight v-neckline is helpful in warm weather, as is her straw bonnet. The hoop is of modest size and the skirt slightly raised, both indications she intends to be actively engaged in activity.

Fashion always has a story to tell - this year the story involved a pair playful girls, a sick child being cared for be a weary grandmother, a prosperous business man and his household - common people of the 1860's, living their lives by the standards of the times.

Those same type of people exist today... but they sure don't dress the same!