2014 Conference Fabric - Fabric for the Ladies

One of the annual highlights of the Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860's conference is the Saturday morning reveal of the "conference fabric" - each faculty member receives a piece, a dress length for the ladies and a different fabric for the men, typically enough to make a vest. It's always amazing to see how different the same fabric can look made up, depending on the choice of trims, placement, etc.

I always have both a sense of excitement and apprehension when I open up the package- like it or not, it must be made into a garment and worn. I'll admit u front, this is not a fabric I would have chosen for myself, but it has grown on me a bit as time has passed.

The fabric is a fine Italian cotton, with a lovely hand. I felt the colors would have been more typically used on wool or silk in the period, which was confirmed by Carolann when she described the fabric during the "Reveal".

With a fabric this bright and bold, there's only two options: attempt to tone it down or embrace and enhance the color. Most participants went with the tone it down option.

But when I went through my fabric stash and found this perfectly matching length of silk poplin, my choice was made: Embrace it or as a friend described it, "you bear- hugged it into submission".

I used a fashion plate (the lady on the left) and a sleeve detail from an original garment as inspiration.

My approach with the fashion plate was not to create a duplicate, but instead to interpret the details into my garment; I believe this is more the way fashion plates were used at the time, as opposed to being literally copied.

I did not have fabric to create the double skirt, but did have enough to place trim with the same dagged shape - I did not have this done for conference but added it later.

The bodice has a slightly pointed front and is trimmed with fancy buttons. I'll be posting more about the buttons in a subsequent post.

The sleeves are bishop style, with a twist - ending in points and brought back together at the cuff. The require a full undersleeve to hang properly, in this case, made of black spotted netting. Yes,I combined plaid and polka dots.

It wasn't clear in the fashion plate if the jacket was a true jacket or trim applied to look like a jacket. I decided to go with a true jacket, to give a little more versatility.

So there it is, the "diamond dress" - I'll be wearing it at Greenfield Village this weekend, see you there!

Lemonade Tasting...and the Winner is...

We hosted a lemonade tasting at an event this past weekend: three period recipes and one "ringer", with participants voting for their favorite.

I chose "portable lemonade" as my entry:

PORTABLE LEMONADE

Take of tartaric acid, half an ounce; loaf sugar, three ounces; essence of lemon, half a drachm.

Powder the tartaric acid and sugar very fine in a marble or Wedgewood mortar; mix them together, and pour the essence of lemon upon them, but a few drops at a time, stirring the mixture after each addition, till the whole is added; then mix them thoroughly, and divide it into twelve equal parts, wrapping each up separately in a piece of white paper. When wanted for use, it is only necessary to dissolve it in a tumbler of cold water, and fine lemonade will be obtained, containing the flavor of the juice and peel of the lemon, and ready sweetened.

Godey's Lady's Book

January 1863

Some modern equivalents:

Tartaric acid = Cream of tartar

Loaf Sugar = Granulated sugar

Essence of lemon  = Lemon Extract

The taste was very lightly sweet, with just a touch of lemon and quite refreshing on a hot day - I might try making my own lemon extract next time.

And the winning recipe? 

Instant Country Time!!!!

Most people were a bit embarrassed when informed that they had voted for the modern powder, but I think it just illustrates a couple points:

1.) The difference between modern and period expectations regarding sweetness and flavor profiles, and

2.) Most people gravitate towards the familiar and Country Time lemonade is far more common than any of our period receipts.

Over the past couple years, our group has been really delving into period foodways and we've found it a great way to interact with the public - after all, we all eat!  

Sister Dresses - Update

The "sister" dresses made their debut at the Greenfield Village Civil War Remembrance event this past weekend - and they were definitely a hit!

The fit was acceptable, a little large, but that's okay - it leaves some room for the inevitable growth of little ones. The loose princess cut was also great considering the very hot weather, a bit more comfortable than a dress with a waist band. These dresses were intended as casual, play wear, not high style and the girls really seemed to enjoy wearing them.

The girls were asked to participate in the fashion show:

They had a great time and were a favorite of the audience, receiving a resounding round of applause.